Iona in the rain

When I looked at the hourly weather this morning it was:
8:00 – 56 – light rain
9:00 – 56 – light rain
10:00 – 56 – light rain
11:00 – 56 – light rain
12:00 – 56 – light rain
…
and so it proved to be. A whole lot like Oregon in say March. I gave up trying to get photos out the bus windows because of the water drops and streaks.

We took a ferry over from Oban to the Isle of Mull. This is part of Oban taken from the ferry. There was actually a brief break in the rain while when we left Oban.

Along the route we passed this lighthouse.

Once on Iona we had lunch and then visited the Abbey. The Abbey is still in use while being renovated.

Because of the recent rain all of the streams on Mull are running full. Lots of water. Very picturesque.

Tom

Skye and back

This morning we toured Skye. This afternoon we returned to Scotland and drove through Fort William to Ballachulish. Our first stop on Skye was the Museum of Island Life where they had recreated several old crofter’s huts.

Our trip around Skye also took us to a basalt column cliff. These formations are known by different names in different lands. Here in Scotland these are called “kilt rocks” for their resemblance to the pleats in a kilt.

Back in Scotland we stopped at the iconic Eilean Donan Castle. This was our lunch stop so I got to take photos of it from several different vantage points. Eilean is prounced like Alan with the first A long.

Eilean Donan Castle.

In the afternoon we took a tram to the top of Ben Nevis where we had a view of the great glen. We could see Loch Ness and Loch Nochy with Fort Augustus between. 

Tonight we are at the Ballachulish Hotel. A lovely Victorian age hotel.

Tom

Over the sea to Skye

Today started out dark and rainy. Low clouds and mist. Not much to see. It is difficult to get photos out of the bus windows at the best of times. I get reflections and the foreground is flying past so quickly that it blurs. This morning was impossible. Our first stop was at a small waterfall on the river Shin, chosen, I suspect more for it’s fine visitor center than the beauty of the falls though they are pretty.

Our lunch stop was Ullapool. A nice little fishing village facing the Atlantic.

Mid afternoon we crossed over to Skye. The Isle of Skye, celebrated in story and song
”Speed tiny boat, over the sea,
over the sea to Skye”
The ferry to the island has been replaced by a bridge. It isn’t even that long. So much for myth although where Charles crossed to Skye was further North and a longer ride.

Like most of Northern Scotland Skye is mountainous. It is shaped like  multiple peninsulas stuck together. As a result with over 600 miles of coastline no part of the island is more than 5 miles from  the sea.

Tom

The Orkney Islands

This morning we took a ferry across to the Orkney Islands.On the way out we passed this uninhabited island. At one time there were many small crofts here but the Scottish Government decided that they needed a new harbor. They hired the workers to build the harbor from the local population. Having gotten a taste of working for salary many of the crofters decided it was easier than subsistent farmers and sailed away from the new harbor never to return. Today they are all gone.

For lunch we stopped at Kirkwell, the capital and largest city. We visited the Cathedral there.

In the afternoon we visited the standing stones at the Ring of Brodgar. These predate the ones at Stonehenge.

Our last stop was at the Italian Chapel. This was built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II. These prisoners were building anti submarine barriers of concrete blocks so they had access to concrete. This is a quonset hut with a carved concrete façade.

Tom

Culloden to Thurso

The battle of Culloden is to Scotland as the battle of Gettysberg is to the South; the end of the dream of independence. As history is written by the victor, the Scottish version of Culloden is subtly different from that of the English but there is consensus that Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Catholic allies were soundly defeated. As the battlefield is in Scotland it is sympathetic to Charles.

In the afternoon we stopped at Dunrobin Castle, home of the Earl and Countess of Sutherland. At one time Sutherland land totaled 2200 square miles. The largest landholding in Scotland.

In the gardens of Dunrobin we had a demonstration of Falconry. Carol and I have seen Falconers fly birds before but this one was absolutely the best we’ve seen.

We ended the day at Thurso in the far North of Scotland. As an unexpected bonus, the Thurso Pipe Band was having a concert along two blocks just a short way from our hotel.

Tom

Into the Highlands

We left Aberdeen this morning headed for the highlands. Carol and I chose not to visit the royal castle at Balmoral. While many of the group took that tour we strolled through Ballater. Took some photos and then had lunch at a café there. When the Royal Family is at Balmoral this is the closest village for shopping. Many of the shops sport the Royal warrant indicating that it has been visited by the Queen.

After we picked up those who had visited Balmoral we visited Crathie Kirk. This is the church that the Queen attends when she is in residence at Balmoral.

Driving through the highlands our bus passed this small castle.

The highlands of Scotland is hard country. At one time there were many small crofters trying to eke a subsistent living from the land. There are many fewer inhabitants today and they largely run sheep on this land. It is cold and damp here and many sheep breeds do not do well here. Those that do have coats that are too coarse for most uses of wool though the fleeces can be used for carpet or insulation. Most Scottish sheep are raised for meat rather than fleece. At our last stop we watched a modern day shepherd use his sheepdogs to work a small flock. Neil not only uses his dogs for herding but also competes in sheepdog trials with them.

Tom

From Edinburgh to Aberdeen

Along the Eastern coast the land is fertile and has been fought over for centuries. This is the desirable bit of Scotland. Tomorrow we will head toward the highlands but today we are still in fertile farmland.

Our first stop was at Saint Andrews. Originally home to the Catholic Church in Scotland it was razed when the Catholic Church fell out of favor in favor of Protestantism. We saw the ruins of the Bishop’s castle and of the Saint Andrews Cathedral.

Our next stop was at Glamis Castle. Birthplace of the Queen Mother or, as she is known in Scotland, the Queen Mum. Queen Elizabeth spent some summers here when she was a girl. There are family photos in the castle. Our visit included a tour through part of the castle but no photography is allowed within the castle.

Glamis Castle

When the Romans came to Britain in the 4th century the Northern portion of England was held by the Picts. The land wasn’t very desirable and the Picts were good fighters so rather than attempting to defeat them the Romans walled them out of the South. As the Picts had no written language that we know of there is little evidence of their culture. In the churchyard at Aberlemno is a stone bearing Pictish runes.

We ended the day in Aberdeen.

Tom